Wednesday, July 8, 2009

What to grow in Winter in Perth


A question we get asked a lot and ponder ourselves, is when to grow what for our Perth climate. So we've done a bit of hunting around from various local sources to make it easy for everyone to have a productive garden and healthy, home-grown food all year round. Here's what you can get planting this Winter:


Artichokes (Jerusalem) 

Asparagus

Beetroot

Broccoli

Cabbage

Carrots

Celery

Lettuce

Onions(Early White/Brown)

Parsnips

Peas (Snow/Sugar)

Potatoes

Radish

Rhubarb

Silver beet

Spinach

Swedes

Turnips

Where can I buy a worm farm?


Worm farms are gaining great popularity these days. But did you know that subsidized worm farms are available from some local councils? So be sure to check with your Council to find out if these are provided in your area.

Worm faming kits are available from some garden centres and hardware stores, and you'll find other suppliers in the Yellow Pages under 'worm farms'.

Here's some places we have dealt with who also can give you some great advice. We advise a quick phone call beforehand so you can be sure of availability. You can also discuss how many worms will be suitable for the type of system you are starting and the cost. Many suppliers home deliver and offer after-sales support.


Environment House 125 King William St Bayswater (Last house before the river) Phone: 08 9271 4488 / 08 6363 5447. SustainAbility Shop open Saturdays 10-4 (Other times by arrangement)

Worm Casting Pouch - a fantastic and low maintenance invention where the worms are kept in pouches in-situ on your garden wherever you want to improve your soil quality. Contact Jenny Holder on 9385 9595.

The Worm Shed 3479 Chittering Road, Chittering Tel 08 9571 8003 and ask for Kevin or Deb.

Soil Life 37 Feldts Road, Martin. Tel 08 9397 5716

Repel pests the way Nature intended


Above: Basil, one of the garden's (and kitchen's) best friends.


Many gardeners have successful experiences repelling pests with plants, particularly herbs. We can't vouch for all of these but if you've had some personal experiences or have some more knowledge in this area, we'd love to hear from you. 

• Marigolds of the Tagetes species, known as French or African marigolds, reduce nematode infestations.
• Southernwood, also known as ‘ladslove’, repels aphids and cabbage moth.
• Fennel repels flies and fleas.
• Thyme and Dill repel cabbage moth.
• Rosemary repels leafhoppers, aphids and caterpillars and carrot fly.Grown as a hedge around a vegetable garden it not only looks wonderful but acts as a general pest repellent for insects such as whitefly. Add a sprig or two of rosemary to your clothes cupboards to repel moths and silverfish.
• Mint although vulnerable to caterpillars, repels many other insects.
• Wormwood repels fruit fly.
• Tarragon helps repel snails.
• Garlic repels many airborne and soilborne pests. Deters beetles, spider mites, fruit fly and its smell confuses carrot fly and white cabbage butterfly. 
Basil A must for any vegetable garden, basil's general insect repellent properties make it an excellent plant to grow throughout your patch. Especially effective with cabbages, beans and tomatoes. Grow basil in pots near doorways to deter flies.
• Sage Attracts bees but repels many pest insects and protects onions from onion maggot. Sage also repels ants, so grow it in pots near doorways, and lay sprigs of sage on shelves and entry points. It is also said to keep mice at bay.
Sources: Dept. of Agriculture, Sustainable Gardening Australia

Worm Farms - FAQs and Troubleshooting

Sometimes all the good intentions don't quite go as intended! If you're experiencing problems with your worm farm, hopefully this post will help. Or if you know of other or have come up with your own solution to a worm farm problem, please let us know so we can spread the word. 

Smells

If kept properly, a worm farm won't smell. If it is smelly, anaerobic bacteria have probably built up in uneaten food wastes. Stop feeding and stir in some garden lim into the layer of food. This aerates the organic material and allows worms to access it more easily. Repeat this until the smell disappears, then start feeding again.

Vinegar flies

You may be overfeeding your worms and causing bacteria that attract these small flies (which are harmless). Limit the food supply to what the worms can eat on a daily basis and add a little garden lime.

Ants

The worm farm is probably too dry or acidic. Add a little water to raise the moisture level and add some garden lime to where the ants are gathering. To prevent reinfestation, either smear Vaseline around the legs of the worm farm (if it has them) or stand the legs in a container of water. If the container does not have legs, pour a ring of talcum powder around the base. Make sure you keep a lid on your farm or cover it with hessian.

Fruit fly
There's a few things you can do to keep their numbers way down. First, don't bring them in. Fruit flies come into the home as cocoons in the peels of fruit we buy. Their tiny eggs are planted into the skins. One way to kill the eggs, if you want to go to this length, is to drop the skins and peels into hot water, microwave a couple of minutes or steam them. The eggs aren't buried deeply, so you shouldn't have any problem reaching them.In the worm bin, always bury your food waste several inches deep in the bedding. In addition, you can place a couple layers of damp newspaper flat over the surface of the bedding. Each of these helps to keep adult fruit flies from accessing the buried food, where they'd love to lay their eggs.

Maggots

These icky critters appear due to decomposing meat being present in the worm farm. Avoid meat in your worm farm. To remove maggots place bread soaked in milk on the surface. The maggots will be attracted to it and you can remove them after a couple of days.I know, yuk, but I bet you'll never put meat in your worm farm again!
Cockroaches
If cockroaches invade your worm farm keep a lid on the farm or cover it with hessian.
Excessive Acidity
Acidic conditions can be caused by too much sugary food, such as fruits, and grains. Sprinkling some dolomite, wood ash or lime on the farm can help solve this problem.
My worms don't seem to be breeding!
If your worms will not breed you may need to keep the farm in a shadier or cooler (around 18-25ºC) location or keep it more moist (although not too wet).
Why aren't the worms moving from the lower levels to the top working tray?
You may have added new food before the worms have eaten the previous food. This leaves uneaten food through the system and causes a reluctance by the worms to migrate upwards whilst they can still access food in the lower layers. Before adding new trays stop feeding the worms for at least a week to ensure all existing food has been eaten. Also, the level of castings in the working tray needs to be high enough for the worms to pass easily up to the next tray.
Can I put worm farm worms in the garden?
Worm farm worms require moist conditions all year round, and do not tunnel deep to find moisture. They can only be useful in the garden if you have a thick layer of mulch.
How can I help the worms to eat more?
Mash, blend, or food process scraps. Maintain temperature to around 24ºC. Avoid acidic foods.
My worm farms turned into a swamp! 
Ok, so you've got a couple of inches of water on the bottom of the worm bin. "Now what?", you ask. Well, the answer's simple:start bailing!
First, remove any waterlogged castings from the bottom of the bin. Place these in some kind of porous container (a box with holes in the bottom works) to let the castings dry out before using them.Then, ask yourself how the excess water got into the bin: Did you recently added a lot of very wet waste, like watermelon rinds? (If this is the case, problem solved.. remove some of those rinds and vow not to do this again.) Is the humidity in your area high enough that very little evaporation happens through the bin's air holes? You can correct the problem by adding a lot more aeration holes or by placing the bin where there's more air circulation.Does your bin just seem to collect moisture? Many bins, particularly pastic ones, do. To improve its aeration, add some 6mm holes on the bottom and sides of your bin. Adding a dozen per square foot should help a lot. If it's a stacking tray bin, look and see where it is designed to allow air to enter. You're going to have to improve the aeration on teh bin somehow. Leaving the lid off will help, and so will keeping the spigot open (with a bucket below to catch excess liquid.)
Sources: The Good Compost Guide, Welcome to the Worm Factory, All things Organic, City of Ryde

Worms, worms, wonderful worms!


Why have a worm farm?

Worm farming is a composting process known as 'cold composting'. It's an alternative to hot composting garden waste and fruit and vegie scraps from the kitchen. Worm farms are ideal for people living in flats or houses small backyards.

The worm castings produced are one of nature's best composts and fertilisers. The nutrients from worm castings and worm farm liquid are organic, odourless and more readily available to plants than chemical fertilisers that leach through Perth's sandy soils.


Making a worm farm

You can build your own worm farm from polystyrene fruit cartons, wooden crates or old tyres. There are lots of good information sources and tutorials available on the Net to guide you in the process

Alternatively, you can purchase a ready-made worm farm made of recycled plastic or timber. To prevent infestation by vermin, worm farms should either be raised off the ground on legs, or have a layer of wire mesh secured at the base.

Worms for worm farming are not the same as worms found in your garden. Particular earthworms, called composting worms work best as they thrive in the rich, moist conditions of a wormery and consume more organic matter. The most common compost worms are Tiger Worms, Red Wrigglers and Indian Blues. These are available through some local councils, garden centres and worm farmers. You will need at least 2000 worms to get your worm farm started. Once operating, your worms will regulate their own population by breeding if food and space are plentiful, and stopping when they are not. 

Find a suitable place in your garden for your worm farm. Worms don't like getting too hot or wet, so its important to find a shady place out of the rain. Ensure that any liquid can drain from the worm farm so that the worms don't drown. You can use this liquid or 'worm-wee' to fertilise plants.

Worm farms need to be kept moist (but not too wet), so if your worm farm is likely to be unattended during holidays or other absences, it is best to ask a friend or neighbour to occasionally water (and feed) the worms. 


What can I feed worms?

YES: Almost any type of vegetable and food scraps, tea bags and coffee grounds, soft leaves, hair (yes, hair), vacuum cleaner dust and damp cardboard.

NO: Onions, meat or dairy products, a lot of citrus. Also avoid materials contaminated with chemicals.

If possible, chop or break worm food into small pieces - this allows the worms to eat it faster. The worms in a small wormery should eat all the food scraps generated by a household of four. A school of about 300 students would need a wormery that could house between 23,000 and 46,000 worms (about 2 square metre surface area).


Interesting Facts

• Earth worms are hermaphrodites: Each worm has both male and female sex organs.

• Earthworms have no eyes, but can sense vibrations, light and temperature through sensory organs in the skin.

• Earthworms breathe through their skin and expel urine through their pores.

• If worms don't like the conditions around them, they will try to leave. If they don't find a suitable new home, they will die.

• The worm has a long gut running from one end of its body to the other. It acts as a big muscle that squeezes food particles and dirt until the nutrients are absorbed. Whatever the worm cant absorb is passed out as castings, rich in bacteria.

• Worms will stop breeding when they reach their containers capacity. They will commence breeding again if some worms are removed.

• The population in a well-maintained wormery will double every 2-3 months.

• Each adult worm can produce up to 12 babies per week!

Sources: The Good Compost Guide, Welcome to the Worm Factory, Wastewise, Boston Tree Perservation

The A-Z of Greening your Backyard


Here's a link to a great article written by local gardening expert Josh Byrne for Gardening Australia's magazine (Oct 2007 issue). Some fantastic tips and resources in there for all of us.

Pic from Gardening Australia site

Specialist Native Plant Nurseries in Perth


Here's a list of reputable and helpful nurseries specialising in local and Australian native plants that might be a useful for you, not only for plants but also expert advice. You'll also find lots of useful information of their websites. (Listed in no order of preference and non-aligned to any!). 
1 Johannah Street North Fremantle Tel 08 9336 1262 Open Mon-Fri: 8:30am-5pm
Carramar Coastal Nursery (no website available)

Lot 5 885 Mandurah Road Secret Harbour Tel 08 9524 1227

North: Cnr Caporn Street & Honey Road Wanneroo Tel 08 9405 1607 
South: 1071 Thomas Road Oakford Tel 08 9439 2555
North: Cnr Amherst Road & Stirling Crescent, Hazelmere Open Mon - Fri: 8.30am-3pm
South: Rockingham Golf Course, Elanora Drive, Cooloongup Open Mon-Fri: 9am-3pm
Lot 214 Archibald Street Muchea Tel 08 9571 4090 Closed on Sundays
141 King Road Oakford Tel 08 9525 1324
155 Watsonia Road Maida Vale Tel 9454 6260 Open 9am-5.30pm every day except Christmas Day

Tips for Beautiful, Bountiful Roses


My uncle Jacques in NSW is an avid gardener with some very beautiful roses. My mum was recently made privy to his tried and tested recipe that I thought I should share...

Mulch: Cow manure (I'm also told from another source that lucerne is a popular mulch too)
Pruning: Light pruning anytime after flowering. Hard pruning in mid-late August
Fertilise: Use 'Sudden Impact' August, November and March
Insects: Pyrethrum when required. You can also alternate with Pest Oil if necessary
Mildew/Black spot: Spray with 1 part full-cream milk/9 parts water

Noxious Weed Warning - Lippia 'no-mow' lawn



Common names: Lippia, Carpetweed, Fog fruit, No mow grass, Phyla


While researching ground covers for our de-lawned verge, I googled 'Lippia' as I know it to form a hardy, dense lawn-like mat. All true and very pretty. Unfortunately, this South American plant, which used to be recommended for bank stabilization, has taken over huge sections of the Murray-Darling river system and chokes out even tree saplings. It spreads by seed and fragments, secreting toxic substances, that lead to the degradation of soil and water and displacement of native plant species.

It is a perennial, broadleaf herb, with grey-green leaves 10 to 20 mm long. You've no doubt seen it in a few gardens as in recent times its gaining in popularity. Each tiny leaf has 2 or 3 serrations on each side. Lippia produces numerous small, round, white or lilac flowers. The plant has a taproot up to 2 metres deep. In river or creek bank situations these large taproots act like wedges and will actually cause large sections of the bank to break away and fall into the waterway.It has been marketed as a low maintenance “no-mow” turf, and is now found in many household lawn situations. It out-competes all native vegetation including tree seedlings.

I’m not taking the risk so will solarise the seedlings we have and inform the nursery which sold it. Any suggestions for another hardy, dense lawn-like mat?

Sources: North West Weeds, University of Arizona

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

How to find or start a neighbourhood group

If there's a group near you, we can put you in touch. If there is no group nearby, why not start one?


Starting a group is as simple as taking a stroll in your area, identifying like-minded neighbours by things like veg or fruit plantings, non-lawn verges, solar panels or native gardens. Note the addresses then make some calling cards or introductory notes. (See sample below) On a day and time when you think people will be home and not too busy, introduce yourself, give your

card and start talking gardens. If they are out or you feel a little shy,leave your note and maybe even a homegrown gift.  People are generally very happy to have their gardens appreciated and quick to see the advantages of meeting new like-minded neighbours. 

Once your budding group is up and running, let us know so we can put you into our network.

How does a neighbourhood group work?

What do neighbourhood groups do?

A group can do whatever suits its members. Groups can help each other with big chores such as lawn conversions, purchasing or spreading mulch, organise speakers, nursery or garden visits, swap produce, seeds or seedlings, or share equipment such as a trailer, mulcher or tools. Some of our groups organise regular catch ups at cafés or in each others gardens and share news and experiences with each other, and email each other of interesting events and happenings that they know of. As your group gets to know each other, you'll enjoy the support and connection with each other and be in contact as much or as little as you like.

 

How does a group keep in contact with Grassroots Gardeners?

For ease of communication, we recommend choosing one person in your group as a central point of contact with us. You can keep in touch with us via this blog, and use it to post your groups news, advertise event or ask questions to the wider network. Its also our community notice board for all events happening in the network and events of interest in the wider community.

Alternatively, our Head Gnome, Jen Horne, can be reached via garnome@bigpond.com or on (08) 6389 2351.

Our Mascot!


Above: Gary, our little gnome in the know who guards over the vegie patch in our backyard. Go Gary Go!


We've chosen the garden gnome as our Grassroots Gardeners mascot and not just because they're cute! There's a lot more to our vertically challenged friends; here's some history we've sourced so far...
The name ‘gnome’ is said to come from the Latin word ‘gnomus’ which is thought to possibly come from the Greek word ‘gnosis’ meaning 'knowledge' (i.e. of hidden treasure). A more likely origin though, is the word ‘genomos’ meaning 'earth dweller'.
In 1847, Sir Charles Isham brought 21 terracotta gnomes back to his home in the United Kingdom after a trip to Germany. One of these original gnomes still survives today. Known as 'Lampy' this 150yo+ gnome is still on display and is insured for one million pounds! With their reputation expanding out from Germany, garden gnomes soon became popular across Europe and particularly in England and France, where gardening is looked upon as a very serious undertaking.
Modern garden gnomes are based on the legendary 'Gnomes' of myth, mysticism, and fairy tales. Gnomes have historically been described as small (from a few inches to a foot or two in height) stout beings who live in Nature - usually underground. European magicians and other mystics considered gnomes the most common and important elemental spirits of the ‘Earth’ element (the other three classical elements being: ‘Water,’ ‘Fire,’ and ‘Air’). Gnomes were said to wear conical hats and to be able to move through the earth itself as easily as we humans walk upon it; yet if any of these underground dwellers were caught out in the daylight it was said that the rays of the Sun turned them into stone. But other sources reported that gnomes merely turned into toads during the sunlight hours. Sometimes gnomes were said to have magical powers to protect or punish people – or to reward them with happiness. Gnomes are also said to be guardians of secret underground treasures – especially gold. Even in modern times gnomes are said by some –such as the highly influential mystic Rudolph Steiner - to be involved in the hidden processes of plant life. In fact many farms, including prize-winning vineries, follow principles based on these beliefs.

If you've got a gnome in your garden, feel free to send us a pic - we'll collate them all and post them up for your viewing pleasure.

About Grassroots Gardeners

Grassroots Gardeners was created by a group of 7 like-minded people who all completed a local council-run 'Climate Change: Be the Change' workshop, in Mosman Park, Western Australia. The workshop was a facilitator for grassroots projects and actions created by participants in order to foster greater community connection and action for the environment. Our group wanted to focus on creating more sustainable homes and communities, and have some fun doing it! Grassroots Gardeners was borne from this focus as a way to connect with others in our neighbourhoods and share this vision. We are an independent, not-for-profit and unfunded organisation built simply on our love and enthusiasm for our precious environment.

 

The Grassroots Gardeners network is made up of smaller neighbourhood groups throughout Western Australia (and maybe even beyond!) that individually and collectively want to create positive grassroots change for the environment. 

 

We hope to promote and foster valuable home practices such as:

• Growing vegetables and fruit

• Growing native plants 

• Composting & worm farms

• Controlling weeds and pests organically

• Sharing seeds

• Sharing produce

• Sharing skills, resources and tools

• Building community and friendships

• Sharing information and experiences

• Reusing and recycling

• Water conservation

And have fun as we do it!


As an overall group, we hold events for our members, visiting gardens, inviting guest speakers, hold 'crop swaps' and are a support mechanism information centre and promoter for all the neighbourhood groups in our network.


Our values

Simplicity – grateful enjoyment of the simple pleasures in life.

Harmony – living sustainably with moderate and mindful consumption.

Respect – for the needs of our environment and each other

Empowerment- each individual can make a difference and our smallest actions have large effects.

Friendship, community and fun - Positive connection with each other and our environment.


We can all help ourselves and each other towards a better future.

For more information on Grassroots Gardeners, contact our head gnome, Jen Horne, at garnome@bigpond.com